Golite Breeze backpack and the “Ray Way”

I’m quite a fan of Golite backpacking gear and own a fair few shelters and backpacks of thiers. Originally, Golite based their products on designs of kit devised by Ray Jardine but their paths diverged, Golite Gear became more mainstream (and heavier) and eventually went bust.

Ray Jardine is, as far as I know, hale, hearty and pursuing his outdoor pursuits while still offering kits via the Internet for buyers to make their own versions of his designs. These include a quilt and the Ray Way Tarp. I own a Golite Cave 1 which is the commercial version of his tarp and it’s an excellent piece of kit in every respect. You can read my views on it in a different post on this site.

The Ray Way is essentially about hiking efficiently with low weights and well-thought out and reliable MYOG gear. Ray applied his aerospace engineering background and training to produce just such kit; all of which is backed by thousands upon thousands of miles of hiking experience in all sorts of terrain and climates. In short, if you want to know about backpacking techniques and equipment then Ray Jardine is a very good source to start with.

I’ve been intrigued by the Breeze for a while now but, as the last ones were made around 2005, finding one has about the same probability as finding rocking horse droppings. I was resigned to buying a kit from Ray and making one myself. Glory of glories, up popped one on EBay that had never been used so is new to all intents and purposes. I grabbed the opportunity with both hands and got the pack. So, what is a Golite Breeze and why would I want one?

The Breeze is about the most simple backpack design there can be. It consists of a large main bag that is fastened shut by a drawcord and strap from the rear of the pack over the top to the front. There are two mesh pockets on the sides that are large enough to take water bottles, snacks, tents or whatever plus a very large external mesh pocket. There are two ice axe loops and two pieces of fabric above the water bottle pockets that help support the seams and could be used to trap tent poles if stored in the side pockets. Two shoulder straps are used to carry the pack although Ray Jardine recommends just using one at a time and alternating the shoulder doing the carrying. There is no sternum strap, no hip belt, lashing or compression system or anything else. Structure of the pack is made by using your sleeping pad and other gear.

The vital statistics of the Golite Breeze are:

  1. Weight 400g or 14 ounces
  2. Main pockets 47.52 litres or 2900 ci
  3. Mesh pockets 13.93 litres or 840 ci
  4. Total capacity 61.45 litres or 3740 ci
  5. Carrying weight 9 kg ideal, 11.4 kg max or 20lbs ideal, 25lbs max

Clearly, this is a pack for backpackers who follow ultralight principles and are good at packing loads in a backpack. Those were the reasons I wanted the Breeze along with its low weight. In addition, it has sufficient volume to carry spare insulation in colder weather. Living in the UK I find a lot of UL packs too small to do this and, sadly, the UK climate often requires a microfleece or similar to be carried. It’s not the weight but the volume that’s the problem.

My Breeze only arrived today so I haven’t had chance to even begin to test it properly although I did throw random gear in up to the recommended carry weight and walked around with it. My first impressions were a) packing is crucial for comfort, b) I didn’t miss the hipbelt at all, and c) I wasn’t aware of any discomfort on my shoulders. However, it’s early days yet and I need to get some trail miles in before I’ll know for sure but I think the Ray Way is might be the way to go! To end this blog here are some pics of the Breeze.

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OMM 3.5 litre waist pack

OMM are a long-established British company make lightweight gear for runners and backpackers. Their products are distinguished by design, functionality, low weight and robustness. This little pack is no exception weighing 150g and is very well made.

There is one large pocket plus two side pockets – the side pockets are closed by elasticated webbing and are suitable for holding gel bars, etc. They also have a key clip in each one. I was a bit dubious about the safety of items held in these but, in practice, nothing has fallen out and the easy accessibility is a great thing to have when on the move.

The main pocket is closed by a dual zip as is common on this type of pack. It also has a key clip sewn in. Other than that it is just a large, empty pocket for carrying stuff in. Simple and effective! My guess is the capacity of the main pocket is a fraction over three litres with the side pockets making the total up to 3.5 litres.

On the top is an elasticated shock cord run through webbing tabs in a figure of eight. The cord can be tightened by a little plastic lock. The cord has two functions: a) to hold something like a windshirt firmly on top of the pack, or b) to help compress and stabilise the pack if it’s not full. There are two plastic grips on the bottom of the pack that the cord can be ran through for this job. In practice, this is a useful addition to the pack but if you don’t want it then it’s easy to remove and refix the shockcord as required.

With a bit of ingenuity it’s possible to use the bottom clips and the shockcord tabs to fasten the waist pack onto a rucksack if you don’t want to wear it but this depends on what rucksack you’re using.

The materials that make up the pack are all very light and extremely strong. I should add I have other pieces of OMM kit made from the same material that have given me years of dependable service so I know this pack will perform well for many years to come. Stitching is first class. The waist belt is adjustable and, once tightened, doesn’t come loose. There are padded areas on the belt to aid a comfortable fit. The logo and detailing are reflective so you can been seen on the road.

Wearing the pack shows the cleverness of the design. It moulds to the body and the padded areas absorb shocks from the contents of the pack when in motion. Crucially, the pack does not impede the motion of the body. Again, simple and effective.

If you’re a runner or a backpacker who needs a bit more volume to carry water, clothing, food or whatever then this pack is a very good option. It is a top quality waist pack that does exactly what it is supposed to do and will reliably continue to do so for many years. It is constructed to a high standard with robust, but very light, materials and the design is extremely well thought out. It works!

Here are some images of the pack that I’ve taken from the OMM website https://theomm.com/product/waist-pouch/

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Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn revisited.

Some time back I wrote about my initial thoughts on this shelter and how impressed I was with it. Since then, I’ve been able to get out and about a few times and use it in anger; the most recent being a four-day backpack in the Peak District that I organised for the Backpackers UK Club.

I was impressed before trying the tarp in the field but now I’m super impressed! All the fact and figures are in my previous blog post but the reality is that is is very light to carry, really simple to get a good, taught pitch and very adaptable. From previous experience I know that it deals with rain extremely well but the latest trip was blessed with hot, sunny days and cold nights. One night there were strong gusts so I pitched the SpinnTwinn low on three sides.

There was some condensation on the inside, especially near the foot end, but that’s to be expected as the dew point was passed and, to quote Scotty, “Ye cannae beat the laws of physics”. The condensation wasn’t a problem though as nothing got wet under the tarp. A quick wipe down with a J-cloth plus a couple of good shakes and the SpinnTwinn was basically dry again.

The rest of the time I pitched the SpinnTwinn in the normal A-Frame configuration and it was fine. Again, some condensation but never a problem.

In summary, I love this tarp for its sheltering ability, loads of usable space, versatility and lightness. I know Gossamer Gear only make the new versions in Silnylon (mine is Spinnaker) but they are essentially the same and I doubt there’d be much difference in performance as Silnylon is a fine material. It’s my favourite tarp by a long chalk. I would not use the SpinnTwinn in the depths of a U.K. winter due to cold draughts -for that the Scarp 1 is my goto shelter.

Highly recommended for those of us who love tarp camping.

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ZPacks Pocket Tarp – first pitch.

It stopped raining today so I jumped at the chance to practice pitching the tarp in the back garden and I have to say I was impressed.

It’s very easy to get a good, taut pitch straight away if the supplied instructions are followed. My first attempt took about three minutes but after a couple of further goes I managed to get the tarp pitched in just under two minutes. There was very little wind which I believe made life easier but, even so, I’m in no doubt that I could get a decent pitch out in the wild equally quickly. Once erected the tarp felt very stable and much stronger than you’d believe looking at the material. There’s plenty of room for me at 5′ 10″ to lie down and be completely under cover. A pack and shoes/boots could also be kept out of the rain. Headroom in the centre is good at roughly 48 inches. The beak at the front provides more shelter from any rain coming from the back so it’s easily possible to sit up, cook and eat while being sheltered.

The tarp does sit with the sides off the ground by about 6 inches when pitched normally so it might be a bit draughty but I can’t see rain being a problem because of the angles of the sides and back. If it was getting windy I’d drop the height of the hiking pole and get the sides to the ground.
One thing that I did notice is that after about ten minutes of being pitched the tarp seems to relax and wasn’t as taught. Not enough to flap but noticeably looser. Puzzling as I thought Cuben fibre didn’t stretch. It could be because the ground was soft so the hiking pole sank in a bit, the stakes moved a little, the knots on the guy lines tightened or any combination of the three. Easy to sort out though by raising the hiking pole a tiny bit.  Pleasing that the adjustment can be done under shelter rather than outside.   Another thing that struck me was how see-through the tarp is. Here is a picture of the tarp pitched.

Next I tried to attach the ZPacks Poncho to the tarp to make a bathtub groundsheet. Try as I might I failed to get a bathtub shape so I’ve emailed Zpacks for some advice. I’m clearly doing something wrong but I’ve no idea what.  On the plus side, the poncho makes a good groundsheet and I did manage to get a small wall at the front.

One thing that I did learn was the poncho is large enough to seal the front up if the wind, or rain, changes direction. Simply slide the ground sheet towards the front of the tarp – there’s still loads of room to lie down and keep your stuff off the wet ground and on the ground sheet. There’s a handy mitten hook on elasticated cord where the pole sits at the top and there are some loops on the poncho which just reach. Clip the loops to the mitten hook and your protected from rain and wind. The elasticated mitten hook is at full stretch so I’ve added a couple of spectra guyline loops to take the tension off. So that’s good- there is nothing more depressing than repitching a tarp in the dark when the rain is falling.

Next stop is to try the setup for real in the wild.

Here’s some pictures of the tarp plus groundsheet. Note how transparent the tarp is.

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Mother Nature and hiking hokum

It is getting onto winter in the UK. Winter is a time that I hate as I take no pleasure in long nights or damp, grey and cold nights. Years ago I decided that I was a child of the sun and that hibernating animals have got the right idea. But I had a bit of a “Road to Damascus” moment recently.

I was in a large outdoor  gear shop the other day and, from where I was standing, I could see a lot of the advertising material for the products and something stuck me that I’d never noticed before. All the promotional guff had the same message that boiled down to “Nature is our enemy”. I’m sure you’ll have seen the same things:

  • Rain is something to be avoided at all costs by using some wonderful membrane,
  • Night time must be banished with ever-more powerful headtorches,
  • Wind will destroy your tent unless you have the Acme Geodesic Super-Mid,
  • You’ve got to go further, faster, lighter because…….,
  • Cold is something to be terrified of so use the latest down jackets, sleeping bags and other bits of kit.

And so forth indefinitely. Well, it struck me in a flash that, in the main, it is complete hokum designed to prise cash from your wallet. The whole point of backpacking is not to go further, faster but to savour the world. I know of no backpacker who is at war with nature. They love it and respect it but they don’t want to fight it.

Undeniably, being cold and wet is a miserable experience and, equally undeniably, those factors can kill. Despite having very good gear I have experienced hypothermia twice (and it is not pleasant) but all waterproofs will event leak or stop venting to the same effect – once wet you get cold. Likewise, really high winds can batter tents to smithereens but we don’t often get extremely high winds in the UK – if your shelter can stand a 40-50mph wind in summer then it can in winter. Even so I accept that if you’re doing a polar expedition or whatever you will need kit that can stand up to a lot of beating.

But for the most of us hiking and backing are not extreme sports; we walk between destinations, pitch a shelter, cook, sleep, get up and repeat. Provided we have some common sense and carry a spare set of warm, dry clothing, a decent sleep system and shelter we will be fine. Especially if that common sense tells us not to camp on a high summit in  gale force winds but to take shelter lower down. Even better if that same common sense says “Hang on, this weather isn’t too good so lets do a different route or abort the trip”. Surely we should have the brains to look at the weather forecast and not take a shelter designed for high summer out into the hills in gale force winds?

So I have decided to stop being influenced by all the stuff I read in magazine reviews, see in shops and pick up from forums, web sites and other sources. Although I’m not advocating the abandonment of good shells, warm layers and a decent shelter I’m not going to fight nature anymore. Rather I will accept that I will get wet and/or cold, realise it is fine to sit in the dark and rely on common sense to deal with those problems and allow me to embrace winter as a friend. So, a sea change in attitude in that I will go with the flow rather than glower throughout the winter. I really am going to try and enjoy the long nights, the cold and the damp.


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Condensation: a soggy tale. 

I’ve just got back from a backpacking trip in the Peak District. It’s late autumn now and winter is not far away so it’s chilly. The UK tends to be humid enough that the dampness at this time of year makes it feel colder than it is. So, out came my Henry Shires TarpTent called the Scarp 1. 

The Scarp 1 is an excellent double-skinned shelter with two side entrances and very roomy for one. It handles bad weather very well, the inner is draught-proof and it’s warm too. Thoroughly recommended as a 3-4 season tent. 

However, in conditions that are still, cool and damp condensation is inevitable on the fly sheet. I’ll stress it’s not a problem as regards liveability because the inner is designed so well but both sides of the fly get wet. If the wind gets up then the excellent ventilation options of the Scarp 1 work well at reducing condensation. In low/no wind situations though the Scarp is as bad as any other single-hoop design. The laws of physics cannot be disregarded. 

The Scarp has a detachable inner so it’s not a major issue to take down and pack the inner and fly separately after wiping down the fly but it is a faff. 

For eight months of the year I use either my Gatewood Cape or a tarp/Bivvy combo and using the Scarp reminded me why I prefer them to a “proper” tent. Simply the fact that condensation is never an issue with a semi-open shelter but it’s always something to be mindful of when using a tent.  Then there’s the extra time to deal with the condensation if the inner needs to be removed and reattached. 

Don’t get me wrong. The Scarp is a fine tent, I’d rate it as one of the best that money can buy, but I will be glad to get back to using shelters that don’t give me a condensation battle. And go back to being ultralight/ultralite (the Scarp weighs about 1300g which is about twice my normal shelter weights. Roll on Spring!

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Bye, bye TrailStar!

Just over a year ago I blogged about the advantages and disadvantages of the MLD TrailStar. Since then I used mine just once so I decided, somewhat reluctantly, to sell it. 

I much prefer to backpack with a tarp or a single-walled tarptent as they are lighter and fit my style of backpacking so the TrailStar seemed to be a good fit for me. It’s a great shelter; roomy and can handle really bad weather. Once you have got the hang of pitching it the TrailStar it is straightforward and quick to pitch. All desirable  attributes for a shelter and why I was hesitant about selling it. 

But, in the end, I decided that the inherent draughtiness of the shelter and the dirty knees/hands syndrome due to the entrance just drove me batty. If there is any condensation on the fly I’d end up with a wet back too when I entered/exited the TrailStar. So I decided to sell it. And I’m glad I did…… by and large. 

The TrailStar is a marmite shelter; either you love it or hate it. I think that if you’re not too tall (5ft 8ins or less) then it’s far easier to get in or out of. However, if you are 5ft 10ins or more then it’s a hands and knees job. And, for me at any rate, it’s bloody annoying. 

The draughtiness is something that can either be put up with or you’ll need to carry an inner or Bivvy bag too. These are essential tools in buggy conditions but just extra weight to carry outside of bug-season. 

I’ve found the TrailStar to be excellent in some ways (weight, space, storm worthiness, pitching) but bad in others (draughts, entry/exit, privacy on campsites).  I’m glad I tried one for a couple of years but it wasn’t for me. So bye, bye TrailStar, hello Gossamer Gear SpinnTwin and spinnaker The One!  Let’s see if you can beat the Gatewood Cape😀

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Sorry, I’m a heretic about P basses

The Fender Precision Bass has a long and illustrious history since it was introduced in 1951. They were called the Precision because, for the first time, a bass player could play a note precisely unlike on a fretless double bass. The sound was much harder than that of a double bass, the guitar had a lot of sustain and they were (and still are) easier to transport than a double bass.

Not surprisingly they became very popular and a P bass is probably the most commonly heard bass guitar in the world as countless players use them and a myriad songs have been recorded with them. They work well with just about every genre of music from punk to funk, pop to rock, jazz to blues and and anything between. Over the years there has been some tweaks in terms of different tuners, pickups and maple necks tried but, in essence, a new P bass is pretty much the same as an old P bass because it is masterpiece of design that doesn’t need to be changed. The controls are in the perfect place, the bridge is rock-solid, the intonation is good and they stay in tune well. If the neck breaks you can simply buy anther one and bolt it in place. the rest of the hardware is easily replaced and the guitar is built like a tank.

I’m a fan of Fender guitars; I own a Stratocaster, a Telecaster and an early-80s acoustic and they are all fine guitars. I learnt to play bass on an early P bass as the guy who taught me the basics was the bass player of choice for the Tamla Motown bands when they came over to tour in the UK in the Sixties. I’ve even owned a P bass myself and I have played a lot of other peoples. I’ve played American ones, Mexican ones and even the Squier variants made in the Orient and they have all been solid, capable basses.

However, I don’t rate the P bass that highly. I judge a bass on two factors; tone and playability. Undeniably the P bass has a great range of tones – several million bass players along with me agree on that. My issue is the playability. Nearly every one I’ve played has dead spots on the neck where some notes just aren’t as clear and have a little less sustain as the rest do. It isn’t bad but, once heard, it constantly appears in the mind and you end up playing those notes a little harder to compensate. I may have been unlucky with the P basses that I’ve played but other people tell me the same. The best one I’ve ever played was a Mexican one that I got for a particular project – no so much as hint of a dead spot with great sustain.

However, the clincher to me is the profile and taper of the neck. It doesn’t suit my hands nicely so I find it harder to play quickly;  something that is exacerbated by me finding the frets harder to locate quickly than on other basses due to the taper. The net result is that I feel like I’m thrashing a P Bass to get a decent sound out of it and it is hard work to play. Finally it doesn’t feel well-balanced to me so my left arm has to put more effort in supporting the guitar. It isn’t fun to play a gig with tired fingers and arms. I know I’m not alone in having to put a lot of effort into playing a P bass compared to other makes like Gibson and Rickenbacker.

To conclude, the P bass is a great bass for many people but I don’t like them that much despite their many advantages. I’d advise anyone thinking of buying one to check that all the notes sound the same to avoid the dead spots and make sure they get on with the neck profile and balance.



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Fender Rumble V3

About two months ago I purchased a Rumble 25 bass amp for acoustic gigs and I was blown away by it. So much so that I then bought a Rumble 100 watt for electric gigs.

Both have got a great range of tones that are enhanced by presets that can be tweaked by the EQ section. Fender reckon the Rumble has been reenginered to be both louder and lighter than the previous versions. I don’t have any experience of the older versions but the V3s are very light and very loud – no doubt due to the Eminence speaker and the wooden carcass. A case of manufacturer’s blurb matching reality!

So what do they sound like? I’ve played four acoustic gigs and six electric gigs and I think they sound great. Loads of bass, punchy midtones and sparkling highs. They make my Rickenbacker sing – the characteristic snarl of the Rickenbacker is there but with trouser-flapping bass. The same for my other basses. Its quite incredible that such light, small combos produce the sound they do.

There is a myth that bass players need huge speakers and powerful amps to sound good even at small gigs. Well, that is rubbish……absolute rubbish put about by marketing gurus to make bassists buy expensive rigs. And, most likely, give themselves hernias lugging the gear around. These Rumbles can easily cope with drums and two instruments in any normal sized gig with a band or with an acoustic combo with power to spare. No, they will not cope at large venues but you’d DI anyway for those and the  100W Rumble has a DI out so no problem.

I’m not impressed by the overdrive circuits on either Rumble. They are Ok but a bit harsh for my taste. The DI on the 100W is odd because as you alter the gain and EQ it affects the level sent to the desk. Not the best DI in the world but can be worked around easily enough.

In summary, the Rumble V3 in the 25 and 100W versions are nice combos with great tones and plenty of volume. Not equal to an Ampeg rig but a damn sight lighter and more transportable. Thoroughly recommended.

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Zpacks and ultralight backpacking

My Zpacks Pocket Tarp has arrived and guess what! It’s raining hard so I can’t go and practice pitching it! Grrrrrrrr. A proper review will follow in due course. But for now a few observations on both it and the Zpacks Poncho/groundsheet I was lucky enough to get at a bargain price recently. 

The Pocket Tarp is stupid light at 118g including the guylines, the stuffsac and some cuben fibre repair tape. The reason it is so light is because the cuben fibre is a low-weave one. On the Zpacks website Joe does put the rider that it’s for emergency use rather than for a long through hike but I do know of people who use them as their standard three-season shelter. Despite being thin it does appear to be pretty strong and I reckon with good site selection out of high winds it would be ok in three season use for UK Backpackers like myself. Time will tell!

The Pocket Tarp also takes up very little volume in a pack, literally a pocket’s worth. A very rough pitch of it in my house has shown me that it’s plenty spacious for one. So, all good so far.

The Zpacks Poncho is designed to be worn as raingear. I’ve already tried it and it works very well. Good length and a well designed hood keep wind and rain out very effectively while ventilation is also good. The neat thing about the poncho is once the tarp is up you can take off the Poncho, zip it up and use it as a bathtub groundsheet. There are various mitten hooks that fasten the groundsheet to the tarp. The poncho is made from heavier grade Cuben fibre so should take a lot of wear. The downside is that a) it’s heavier at 173g and b) it’s pack size is quite large but I’m sure it will compress nicely once in my Gossamer Gear Murmur.

So why go Cuben fibre? Because, despite its horrendous cost, the weight is so much lighter. Add in you’ve got a set of waterproofs too and the weight come down further. This means I have to carry less. I’ve compiled a spreadsheet that illustrates this. NB: The sheet does not include food, water or fuel as is common practice and is what I’d use in the warmest third of the year. Neverless, sub 5lbs is pretty good!

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